Cocidito madrileño

2 Stars
Crimpy
 6c+

Adjacent Routes
<< None < Héroes del silencio  |  Gorilas en la roca > Vía Valencianos >>


An long right-hand extension to Héroes that goes to the top of the crag. It is fully bolted.
1) to 3) 6b+, 115m. As for Héroes del silencio. 4) 6b, 40m.
5) 6a+, 30m. 6) 6a+ and A0, 40m. 7) 6b+, 40m. 8) 4+, 15m.
9) 6a, 45m. 10) 6c+, 30m. Walk across ledges to 11) 6a+, 30m.
Descent - Walk south, passing the top of a small hanging valley, to a much larger valley, and walk/scramble down this. Where the stream bed meets the cliffs, follow a ledge to the left (looking out) to abseil anchors and make 2 long abseils from this to the floor.

USER COMMENTS

Do not underestimate pitch 6. The first bolts are so close together that you can handover. But then you have to make a few hard pulls which might be 7a, if you don´t have a ladder with you. In comparison to heroes de silencio the route is low in the grade. Especially pitch 10 is a gift. For those with knee or hip arthrosis, or if you boogle to search for the descent you can abseil the route. With 60 meter ropes from stance 10 to stance 8, then to stance 7, then to a sling in pitch 4 (don´t be scared of abseiling the overhang you will certainly reach the sling), than to stance 2 and from there to the bottom with just an easy scramble of 3 m. Thomas Hafke
Hafke - 19/Dec/14

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