Another Toadside Attraction

2 Stars
 7c

Adjacent Routes
<< Bullet the Blue Sky < Crumblefish  |  In Brine > Obscene Gesture >>


A popular direct on Sardine. Climb directly up from the start, up the short groove via hard moves to gain the ledge on Sardine. Follow this to a jug then move up right and climb past an overlap and a couple of well-spaced bolts. Finish up right.
FA. Steve Lewis 1984

USER COMMENTS

If Body Machine is 'definitive 7c', then how on earth can this be 7c? You'd have to re-grade most of the routes at the Tor.
Tom B - 25/Jun/04

Felt like 7c to me! Hard moves lower down and then into crux of sardine. Could do with better boltin higher up. Good route though!
dave - 06/Jun/05

After years of continuing deterioration, a small but perfectly formed left foothold seems to have appeared. Dare I suggest that this route should be graded back to 7b+?
Al Austin - 21/Aug/06

First route I've redpointed. Quite good fun and a much better line than Sardine. However the bolting is utterly atrocious and I can't believe this hasn't been retroed to make some sort of sport climbing sense. Not sure about the small left foot-hold, I certainly found the left foot well sketchy on the crux - but it still feels pretty easy for 7c, I'd take hard 7b+ too *shrug*
Fiend - 26/Jul/09

The bolting is fine on this route. They are here you need them. As this is the first route you have redpointed, do you feel qualified to downgrade the route?
craig devonshire - 27/Jul/09

The bolt positioning is fine, but the old ring bolt above the overlap isn't the greatest.
ChrisC - 28/Jul/09

I was referring to Fiend's comment "retroed to make some sort of sport climbing sense" which I took as adding extra bolts. Maybe I am wrong?
craig devonshire - 28/Jul/09

If you put an 8 foot sling on the bolt on Sardine after the crux then that saves you from relying totally on the ring bolt which may result in a deckout if it failed.
Ted Kingsnorth - 28/Jul/09

I feel qualified to agree with the previous suggestions and grade votes that it could be easy F7c or maybe hard F7b+, yes. Because I have a brain, I've played around on a few other F7b+/F7c routes and can easily work out how they feel relative to each other. It's not hard.

As for bolting, in addition to what Ted and Chris said (run-out moves above an uncertain ring thing), the first bolt placement is rubbish, you need to clip-stick it or do a sketchy 6a move on polished holds to reach it. A proper first bolt would make it a better sport climb, as would proper bolting higher up. Again it's not rocket science.
Fiend - 01/Aug/09

I love the aggression in your reply, Fiend. Ur like a little jack russell snapping at my ankles. I agree the route is piss, but you also failed to onsight wee doris, which again is piss. Am I wrong in questioning your ability to grade something which is clearly the hardest set of moves you have managed to link?
craig devonshire - 01/Aug/09

In addition, you can clip the first bolt on Sardine which protects the moves to clip the first on toadside. What is wrong with clipping a long draw into the first bolt with a stick? There are loads of routes in orkshire that you have to do this on?
craig devonshire - 01/Aug/09

To craig devonshire: thought this space was for commenting on routes, not sniping about others comments, you sad muppet.
shackdoug - 08/Jan/10

Shackdoug: Nice one. At least my comments were related to the route in question.
craig devonshire - 10/Jan/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 36
    hard 7c+ 0 of 16
    7c+ 0 of 16
    easy 7c+ 0 of 16
    hard 7c 0 of 16
    7c 6 of 16
    easy 7c 9 of 16
    hard 7b+ 1 of 16
    7b+ 0 of 16
    easy 7b+ 0 of 16
    3 Stars 2 of 20
    2 Stars 16 of 20
    1 Star 2 of 20
    0 Stars 0 of 20
    Bag of ..... 0 of 20

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