Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 44
The thin flake to the right of Sardine has an extremely technical and fingery middle section, which is now even harder due to the fact it keeps losing holds. At the small roof finish more easily up the wall to the Toadside lower-off.
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always 7c+ anddespite the start getting abit harder due to the loss of a hold out to the left,it doesnt deserve the 8a grade. Perhaps the boulderers who find the routes down to the right easy have a hard time on this due to the amounts of stamina required!!
7b+ to a boulder problem hardly a stamina route - haven't done since the demise of holds though.
This will dissapoint a few but this is only 7c+ although a mighty hard one for the grade! I think its important to have sandbags at any one grade and you certainly have one here! Compare to routes of a similar length (eg. Zoolook, GBH) and its not in the same league.
I think this route is definately 8a now, I did it in may/june 02 when it probably was only 7c+ but since then one of the crucial two crimps on the crux has been pulled off and not replaced.
Its only got two hard moves no way is it 8a
This is definetely worth 8a now. It has been shedding holds for years!
Sorry folks, but another hold has broken. The little spike for your left foot as you stood up using the fat pinch with your left has now gone. It is still doable though just a little bit more insecure. Almost certainly 8A now!
I have done it before the holds came off and in early december this year when the holds had gone. It has to be 8a now. Ask zippy crig keith etc
Bearing in mind some of the routes that get 8a these days this has to be 8a.
8a but definitely bottom of that graded list!
Tomato Sauce is an entertaining excursion although I would suggest a reappraisal of the grade in light of the deparate 'crucifix' move to gain the Sardine ledge...and the fact that you have to do the fiddly undercut move to gain the crack of In Brine which is now much harder than when this link up was first done. Feels of a similar difficulty to Toadside. 7c? A route for those who have done everything else at this grade...why not?!
don't really have much experience at this grade but have been on a few other 8as which all felt a lot easier. what's the general consensus on grade these days as it seems that holds might be disappearing on a regular basis, or i really am as weak as people say i am!