Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 15
One of the more popular technical routes at the Tor. Climb to the top of the prominent flake then move up and traverse left via hard moves on poor footholds. Continue direct via more hard and reachy moves to pull onto the slab and an easier finish.
People say this is definitely 8a due to holds coming off plus it has always been 8a anyway! Harder than its neighbour In Brine which just doesn't cut it at 8a and weighs in at tough 7c+.
i agree with Ted its miles harder than In Brine and tough if you are short.
Harder to use the decent footholds if you're shorter; hence difference in opinion on the grade... quite height-specific.
V. height dependant on both hard bits. I reckon 8a for those who can't keep feet on big footholds on bottom crux and can't do big reach off left sidepull/u'cut higher up. For those ppl who can do these reaches OK I now reckon only 7c+ as these moves are not 6c like u would normally expect on an 8a and its not really that steep/ sustained like other 8a's which have only 6b moves (eg. Raindogs) plus it has some big shakeout jugs.
Whilst its in print, happy to take the 8a;in reality it lacks a 6c move to really establish it as an 8a. Placing the size 1 wire on the lead doesn't make any physiological difference. Its a route with a similar problem to Sturgeon, The Embankment, Cheedale - the debate will go on and on over the grade, but hand on heart 7c+.