The Bernia Ridge

3 Stars
 4c

Adjacent Routes
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1) From the starting col by the east peak, scramble easily along the crest and then down left past a tricky and exposed drop down over a hole in the ridge to a steeper and very exposed section.
2) Down-climb (or abseil) from a bolted abseil point to the continuation of the ridge. A further rocky section of ridge gains another abseil point.
3) A 20m abseil from here lands on some shelving, vegetated ledges near a large bay.
4) Scramble up a steep diagonal-weakness towards the crest of the ridge from where a long section of scrambling ends in a descent to a col with a distinct trio of vertical fins on its opposite side.
5) Walk up the slope next to the ridge-side fin and locate a line of closely spaced bolts on the smooth wall that lead up to its knife-edge top.
6) Climb the wall (4+) (or aid easily) to the knife-edge, then hand traverse this left (bolts) to a stance at a bolt.
7) Steep and slightly loose rock above (2+) gains another long section of ridge that once again ends in a steep descent to a broad col.
8) Ahead lies a long climb, past a number of false summits, to the true summit of the Bernia. Much of this final section is taken via the right flank of the ridge.
9) From the summit, descend the easy-angled ridge, past a short section with a hand-chain in place, to where the ridge starts to level out slightly and bends down to the right.
10) Keeping a close watch for the red dots, scramble left over the ridge and drop down and back left on rock and scree to a short scree-shoot.
11) Descend the scree-shoot and follow a path down to an old ruined fort. Continue along the path from the fort to a low wide col and take a good path that traverses the right side of a steep valley, around a spur to a track that leads easily back to the restaurant and parking.

USER COMMENTS

We went through the forgat, turned left, thrashed through vegetation following bits of path & occasional red dots. Eventually gained the ridge fairly well east of the east peak. From the E peak a 5m ab (bolt anchor & exposed traverse (3 bolts) then easy scrambling leads to the guide book col. With a better path would better than the guide book version
ian stirrups - 07/Nov/13

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