The Bernia Ridge

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
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1) From the starting col by the east peak, scramble easily along the crest and then down left past a tricky and exposed drop down over a hole in the ridge to a steeper and very exposed section.</br>2) Down-climb (or abseil) from a bolted abseil point to the continuation of the ridge. A further rocky section of ridge gains another abseil point.</br>3) A 20m abseil from here lands on some shelving, vegetated ledges near a large bay. </br>4) Scramble up a steep diagonal-weakness towards the crest of the ridge from where a long section of scrambling ends in a descent to a col with a distinct trio of vertical fins on its opposite side. </br>5) Walk up the slope next to the ridge-side fin and locate a line of closely spaced bolts on the smooth wall that lead up to its knife-edge top. </br>6) Climb the wall (4c) (or aid easily) to the knife-edge, then hand traverse this left (bolts) to a stance at a bolt. </br>7) Steep and slightly loose rock above (2+) gains another long section of ridge that once again ends in a steep descent to a broad col. </br>8) Ahead lies a long climb, past a number of false summits, to the true summit of the Bernia. Much of this final section is taken via the right flank of the ridge. </br>9) From the summit, descend the easy-angled ridge, past a short section with a hand-chain in place, to where the ridge starts to level out slightly and bends down to the right.</br>10) Keeping a close watch for the red dots, scramble left over the ridge and drop down and back left on rock and scree to a short scree-shoot. </br>11) Descend the scree-shoot and follow a path down to an old ruined fort. Continue along the path from the fort to a low wide col and take a good path that traverses the right side of a steep valley, around a spur to a track that leads easily back to the restaurant and parking.


We went through the forgat, turned left, thrashed through vegetation following bits of path & occasional red dots. Eventually gained the ridge fairly well east of the east peak. From the E peak a 5m ab (bolt anchor & exposed traverse (3 bolts) then easy scrambling leads to the guide book col. With a better path would better than the guide book version
ian stirrups - 07/Nov/13

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