Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 2
Once one of the most serious routes on British limestone, originally sieged over two days and done in two pitches. Following a clean up and gear replacement, it is now a hard (E6/7b+) but a fairly well-protected climb of the highest quality, done in one huge pitch. Starting just right of M1, climb a wall to reach and climb a desperate bouldery groove then move left to a runner and rest in M1. Move out right and up the shallow groove and trend right up the wall on pockets (bolt) heading for a peg with a tape and junction with V2. Climb back left with difficulty passing a pair of pegs and an awkward to clip and easy to miss bolt. Pull blindly through the bulges above (further bolts) trending left and then direct to finish, avoiding the loose bits.
At this grade, no side-runners would be used to enter and climb the first groove. There is a 'side-runner' at the top of this groove, in M1, which requires a move left of about ½ metre to place. The route then goes diagonally rightwards past the tied-off peg to enter the groove of V2 (bolt runner now available - it was a hex in a pocket on the first ascent). It follows V2 to the girdle break. On the first ascent the girdle was reversed to belay in M1. It is possible to take a hanging belay on old pegs in the break, (left of V2) instead. Done in one pitch it will be the most demanding route on the Tor.
Now clean. Regeared and led in one pitch Autumn 2004. Graham Hoey, Clare Reading. New grade E6 6b/c.
Confirm the grade in 1 pitch is now E6 6b with side runner in M1. It would feel very contrived not to do this and the route now makes for a well-protected pitch, which is a fine companion to Bastille. Despite the fixed gear, the route still has a 'trad feel'.