It is 7a+ to the first lower-off. The upper tufas can be wet.
The first 7a+ is more 7b at least for smallies. The upper route might be 8a+. It only had one accent by a very humble guy, teh Scot Paul Thorburn who equipped all the routes in this sub-sector. He spent hours and hours and paid hundreds of euros out of his own pockets. What a pity he doesn´t get any credit on the Rockfax pages nor in the guidebook.
Anyway, don´t climb this route after rain as the little tufas might snap off. Be careful when descending so you don´t end up above the sea with not enough rope. Also take care pulling your rope after climbing (use the mid belay and in situ quick draws that have been put in for this reason). Take prusiks with you. If you fall off, you might not be able to reach the wall and as the route is so long, you can´t be lowered to the ground).
Marijne Lekkerkerker - 29/Mar/13
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