The Toix Ridge
<< Gutzufuss < Snadengrot | Clive's Redoubt > Isla de encanta >>
The climbing starts at a small rib just right of the tree, and has the name CILBER written on the rock in red.
1) 5, 28m. Climb a rib, trending slightly rightwards to the first bolt, then up the buttress, passing a small roof to a good stance.
2) 5+, 15m. Continue up the slanting crack splitting the wall (4 bolts) then head leftwards past the arete to a stance.
3) 4, 25m. Straight up slabby rock, passing ledges to a bay.
4) 3, 25m. A scrappy pitch. Climb to a ledge at 5m, then trend left (red arrows) to a stance below a groove.
5) 4+, 40m. Climb up the steep corner/groove (bolts) and then continue more easily to a finish up the right arete leading to a big flat ledge.
This is the end of the bolted climbing section.
6) Walk along the ridge to a steep wall with a tree.
7) Pass the steep wall section by scrambling down to the right and then back up to the ridge (this steep section can be taken direct at 5 ).
8) The ridge now becomes steeper and narrower.
9) Scramble up the crest to the summit.
10) More scrambling along the ridge leads to TV masts and the start of an easy path that leads back to the start of the route.
now and then dubious relais and sometimes long distances between bolts (on the easy parts only so no problem there). Very interesting route with some different styles of climbing and a very very beautiful view!!!
Achajus - 16/Nov/13
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