Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 84
The long corner with a large capping roof gives a fine route, high in the grade and with a smattering of loose rock for added spice.</br>1) 4b, 18m. Climb the corner to a belay under the bulge.</br>2) 5a, 27m. Pull over the bulge then follow the corner to the roof. Traverse wildly left to gain the finishing corner.
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I've put high for both HVS & 5a, but that crux section is VERY goey (and a bit loose), and wouldn't disgrace an E1. Superb anyhow.
cracking route, a couple of 5b moves over the overhang on polished smears.
Brilliant route although be careful with gear placements under the roof as they can cause really bad rope drag if they're too far back!
Fully awesome. Crux (well below the roof) needs a little thinking about. Didn't find any problems with the roof but stepping round the corner needs a good lean back and a look over your left shoulder. Excelent.
By the way, run it together. 45m of joy.
5a is a bit mean for getting over the bulge. The rest is superb. hard moves, rests, plenty of gear.
Agreed. The section off the belay upto the roof is definite 5b in places, but good gear. The traverse is great and the layback to get established in the groove is exposed and brilliant. Loose bits throughout though. Harder than original route.
E1 5b on any other limestone crag in Britain - climbing is good but the loose rock has to knock at least one star off. Definitly worth doing though.
If you can do Original Route, you'll piss up this. Bog standard HVS, loads of pegs to clip so you don't even have to place much gear. Definitely do in one pitch...
Surely this no more than HVS 5a?
Climbed this a yr or so ago and really enjoyed it! Agree that moves over the bulge are reachy,can't remember whether i got the onsight (think i did) pegs were a bit wanky but nice nut and hex placements anyway,the floor feels a looonnngg way down when traversing under the roof!
The arete to the left is Sportlight, 7a, which is a good line and a long pitch, but the quality of the rock and climbing is varied.
The black and yellow coloured rock on the right side of the route immediately above the 1st belay is very loose. My partner pulled off some massive chunks yesterday and it was lucky there was noone below. Thought that the route itself is at the high end of the grade. Fantastic position just below the main roof.