Fantasia

3 Stars
Pumpy
 E5 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Hot Gossip < The Phrantic Phinish  |  Delicatessen > Debauchery >>


A fine exposed outing with a lot of great climbing. Effectively a high girdle with some wild situations.
1) 5c, 35m. Climb Skylight to the roof, traverse right (peg) to the arete (bolt above) and down-climb for a few metres until it is possible to traverse right to gain a crack-line which leads to the Castellan belay. Apart from nuts in Skylight and one in the arete just before the down-climb this pitch is now fully geared.
2) 6b, 10m. Traverse right to gain the groove on Hot Gossip. Reverse this to the Laurin stance.
3) 6a, 20m. Reverse Nightmare.. to the in-situ gear then continue right and up to the twin bolts on Brompton's Cocktail. Continue right to belay on Debauchery, just left of Robert Brown.
4) 6a, 20m. Climb up to an overhang and pull out left to a flake. Climb this and the bulges above to finish.
4a) 5c, 24m. More in keeping with the diagonal theme. Continue traversing diagonally right across Ariadne's Thread into Darius. Ascend this to the bolt then continue diagonally right to the thread of Perseus. Finish up this.
FA. John Codling, M.Manson 1981

USER COMMENTS

Up to date and correct description for this route,
1). (5c) Climb Sklyght to the roof. Traverse right (peg) to the arete (bolt above) and downclimb for a few metres until it is possible to traverse right to gain a crackline which leads to the Castellan belay. Apart from nuts in Skylight and 1 in the arete just before the down climb (for the second) this pitch is now a sport route (f6c).
2) (6b) Don't climb up the crack of Castellan (the route never did!). Traverse right to gain the bottom of thre groove on Hot Gossip. Reverse this to the Laurin Stance.
3) (6a) Reverse Nigtmare of Brown Donkeys to the in-situ gear then continue right and up to the twin bolts on Brompton's Cocktail. Continue right to belay on Debauchary, just left of Robert Brown.
(4) 5c A much better final pitch than the original. Continue traversing diagonally right across Ariadne's Thread into Darius. Ascend this to the bolt then continue diagonally right to the thread of Perseus. Finish up this.
Much better than the girdle, a harder versionof Debauchary/Delicatesan!
Graham Hoey - 18/Sep/08

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