Castellan

3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Graunchy
 E5 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Squeezin' Out Sparks < Limelight  |  Laurin > Nightmare of Brown Donkeys >>


The impressive roof at the right end of the cave is more reasonable than it appears from a distance. Well-protected but strenuous with generally good holds linked by great moves.
1) 6b, 21m. Somehow gain jugs on the lip and follow these into a thrutchy crack leading to a hanging stance. No big cigar?
2) 6b, 21m. The crack above the stance has one very hard move and excellent protection throughout.
FA. Barry Webb, B.McKinnon 1963 (over two days)
FFA. Steve Bancroft. John Allen 1976 (also over two days!)

USER COMMENTS

The first and most important gear placement(the one stopping you landing on the belayer) is blocked with snapped stuck wire. Would be advisable to ab the route first and either remove or failing that thread the nut.
Jon Fullwood - 10/Jun/04

Above comment refers to the top pitch.
Boy - 22/Mar/05

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  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 6
    hard E6 0 of 2
    E6 0 of 2
    easy E6 0 of 2
    hard E5 0 of 2
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    E4 0 of 2
    easy E4 0 of 2
    hard 6c 0 of 2
    6c 0 of 2
    easy 6c 0 of 2
    hard 6b 0 of 2
    6b 2 of 2
    easy 6b 0 of 2
    hard 6a 0 of 2
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