Laurin

3 Stars
Reachy
Strong
 E3 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Limelight < Castellan  |  Nightmare of Brown Donkeys > Party in the Park >>


Two contrasting pitches, each with a short hard section between rests and lots of exposure. The upper crack can get choked with dirt. It can be done in one long pitch with a few long extenders, thus missing out the tricky stance.
1) 5c, 20m. Leave the Castellan cave by the higher of two breaks until you can climb up the right-most of three grooves. Move left on pockets to gain a fine stance below the roof (the best gear for the belay requires a trip to the roof and back).
2) 6a, 20m. Climb up to the roof and make a desperate move (easier for the tall) up the steep roof crack above (good thread) in a sensational position. Finish more easily above.
FFA. Martin Berzins, Chris Hamper 1977. FA. Paul Nunn, Oliver Woolcock 1964

USER COMMENTS

well underrated; brilliant steep climbing. Doable as one pitch with a few long extenders.
toby - 08/Aug/08

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  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 9
    hard E4 0 of 3
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