Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 32
The thin crack in the left-hand side wall of the gully has some good moves where you could do with knowing how to jam. Big cams can help and hinder.
Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.
great hand-jamming crack
A very good jamming crack (where you must jam), but cant see how this got downgraded from VS 4c.
surely this is harder than HS 4b.
Nice jamming route, but a cruel sandbag at only HS 4b (and probably HVS 5b if you can't jam!)
New to leading HS, and wish I'd read this before I had a go at the route!
Thought I was a competent HS leader and reasonable jammer before I tried this. If this is HS 4b I'm off to reappraise my status.
blatantly VS, and not an easy one either.
Now a terrific sandbag! VS at least. Quality though.
Definitely VS 4c, and high in the grade at that. And Steve - 'you must jam' - not true, my partner laybacked it!
Looked nice, but I can't really jam that well. Failed to get established, and backed off.
I tried to lead it, gave up at the crack, ended up falling off twice on a top rope - seemed like tough VS 4c to me.
What a massive sandbag at HS. It's an excellent route though and the jamming is really good quality straight in.
Led this as one to finish off the evening last week and couldn't believe the grade. Though short it is at least VS 4c (possibly even 5a). Like someone above, I laybacked the upper wider section after getting a good friend in the back of it. John Parkin
Really enjoyed this. One of those routes it's so obvious what you have to do and where the gear is you can really enjoy it. The top niche was a bit damp this weekend, so I jammed both shoulders in to prevent me slipping - which was quite painful and made it harder to top out!
It is definitely worth VS 4c, but anybody who thinks it's hard for VS definitely needs to go back to jamming school without passing go. It's perfect handjamming all the way up. Lovely stuff.
I'm with John Parkin, VS 4c, maybe even 5a. 2 of us with half a century of gritstone climbing between us got savaged by this
I think this is hard at VS, because, while it's solid jamming, you have to think about where and how you jam it...in that sense it's harder than a perfect jamming crack like The File, where you can plonk your mits in wherever you like. It also throws duff options at you; things to layback and a rubbish slopey break, so it's easy to fanny around trying to work out what to do. But since it's so safe, I've voted HS to keep the tradition of the sandbag jamming crack alive.
Short lived, and quite low in the grade. Shame its not a bit longer as the moves on it are quite nice.