Nightmare of Brown Donkeys
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Intricate route finding in wild positions - an underrated classic which needs a steady second. Be aware of the state of the old fixed gear and back it up.
1) 5b, 15m. Leave the Castellan cave along the lower break, as for Delicatessen, to the stance on Lyme Cryme.
2) 5c, 15m. Traverse back left for 2m and pull up into a shallow groove from the right. Climb the groove (slightly bold) to gain a crack leading to a bong (a big old peg). Clip this then drop back down and make a hard finger traverse left to a stance on Laurin. There are good thread belays under the roof above.
3) 5c, 18m. Climb to the roof and undercut leftwards (peg) under the roof. Finish up the loose groove (old gear).
An alternative is The Phrantic Finish, E3 5c which tackles the roof direct to a good hold on the lip.
FFA. Pete Livesey, Pete Gomersall 1975. FA. Charles David Yates, Steve Read 1974. FA. (Phrantic Finish) Ian Parsons, Ian Robb 1987
The groove on pitch two is definitely bold but the climbing is easier than it first appears. The traverse is tricky but probably 5c not 6a. The top pitch has a pretty unpleasant finish up the groove with worthless pegs and insecure rock.
Jez Portman - 29/Jun/03
Yes the traverse is tricky and bold! I wouldn't argue with 6a. The second can back rope using the tat on the good old bong. A route needing a steady second.
Julian Maund - 15/Jul/04
I did the Phrantic Phinish which was in keeping with the rest of the route i.e. E3
simon cox - 12/Sep/04
I have been informed that the real name of the first aided asensionist was Charles David Yates who styled himself as 'Charlie Halton-Yates'. Sadly he died on 7th July 1974 in a fall from the Preuss Couloir in the Dolomites at the age of 19.
Alan James - UKC - 24/Jan/05
Yet another 3 * classic on the best crag around! OK best in the Peak then
phatlad - 19/Jul/05
Good route but not worthy of the 3 stars with the last unpleasnt groove. Certainly not when compared to the other 3* routes offered by the crag.
The state of the fixed gear is poor and many of the ok looking threads were worn when rotated. Didn't have a knife to replace these.
Nonetheless, a fantastic position for the majority of the route!
Paul Bennett - 26/Jul/10
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