Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 68
A classic journey crossing the main face. With the exception of one short sequence, the climbing is no harder than 5b with delightful balance moves between good pockets. Approach via the 1st pitch of Skylight and a long ramble rightwards along the grubby ledge system.</br>1) 5c, 27m. From the Castellan cave, follow the lower break to gain a rest at the Lyme Cryme stance (possible belay). The juggy crack above is climbed until it is possible to cross the pocketed wall rightwards to the Debauchary stance.</br>2) 5b, 24m. Pick-pocket daintily rightwards to Darius and follow the juggy flakes up and right until another delicate sequence leads to Original Route. Finish up this or abseil off.</br>Darius Finish, 5c. A superb alternative, which improves one of the finest E2s around, is to belay after the delicate traverse on pitch 2 and then finish up Darius.
Better than Debauchery, intricate route finding. Much better to finish up Darius.
Even better finish up Robert Brown!
Wonderful route, wonderful position. Getting a bit polished now
bloody good goute first e2 on limestone and i reckon its definitive e2 although i didnt really feel the 5c move
A wonderful route, lovely and (as the name suggests) delicate. On P1 the "lower break" leaves the cave half way up the sidewall. On P2, after crossing Darius, stay low going into Original Route. And that lower bolt on the Original Route stance is looking increasingly manky..
The belay in the Cave doesn't get the sun until later in the day and it can feel bloody cold without it ! The traverse is no fun with wooden fingers and toes.
Sorry to have been so slow on the first pitch, Graham! Good route and very amenable at the grade. Pitch 2 a delight. Watch out for rope drag on pitch 1.