The Grapevine

1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
 E5 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< The Phrantic Phinish < Delicatessen  |  Lyme Cryme > Brompton's Cocktail >>


A bit of an eliminate, but with some good moves and low in the grade too.
1) 6a, 25m. Climb Lyme Cryme for a few metres then move diagonally left across the wall to a bulge. Continue above to join the traverse of Delicatessen from below and belay on the right. The peg is good and can be backed up with a cam. The direct start is loose and dangerous.
2) 6b, 30m. Follow Brown Donkeys (page 350 ) to the bong and then step right and up to 2 old bolts. Make superb moves up then out left into, and out of, a scoop (a small cam above and left of the left-hand bolt provides a good back-up). Join Debauchery above and follow it left to finish.
FA. Howard Lancashire, Ian Parsons 1985

USER COMMENTS

Back-up Friend on pitch 2 is above and left of the left-hand bolt. The route is well worth doing.
Graham Hoey - 10/Aug/02

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