Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 57
A superb route which for many years had a reputation for poor gear, however, protection on the whole is good and the old, bold section can be protected by slight diversion to the right. The first pitch is good value.</br>1) 5c, 23m. Climb the groove past an assortment of pegs, and good wires, until the crack runs out (old bolts up and left). Step right to ledges and move up to hidden slots where good protection is available (large-ish cams). Either drop back down, step left and back up, or simply move left from the gear to gain the hanging groove (peg). Clip the extended peg above and make a hard pull into a hanging groove. Pull out left to a stance and belay on wires (on Delicatessen).</br>2) 5b, 23m. Another fine pitch. Follow the cracks above and continue through the crux of pitch 2 of Debauchery. Finish direct up a short groove.
I think this is quite a serious route as well as being very pumpy
hmmm. that gear is really, really poor nowadays. don't climb it in mistake for darius. certainly hard for e3, but technically not too bad, just continuous. great climbing though.
Nick, that gear has been poor since about 1980. In fact it is quite likely that it was pretty dodgy in 1975.
Sorry, still E3 but a hard one admittedly.The sction around the poor bolt has a good Friend just below it,and good ones above at the base of the groove and isn't very hard anyway.
Didn't think it was hard for E3 gear seemed OK like Jez said use a friend. Loved this route despite the fact I was sandbagged into it - new to the crag got told it was original route - gulp
i thought the gear seemed pretty bomber, spaced entering the groove but good friends and the in situ tat to clip make it safe as houses.
Good cam below the worthless bolt. Nice climbing however it felt like the hardest of the High Tor 3's.