Lyme Cryme Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Decadence < The Grapevine  |  Brompton's Cocktail > Robert Brown >>


A superb route which for many years had a reputation for poor gear, however, protection on the whole is good and the old, bold section can be protected by slight diversion to the right. The first pitch is good value.
1) 5c, 23m. Climb the groove past an assortment of pegs, and good wires, until the crack runs out (old bolts up and left). Step right to ledges and move up to hidden slots where good protection is available (large-ish cams). Either drop back down, step left and back up, or simply move left from the gear to gain the hanging groove (peg). Clip the extended peg above and make a hard pull into a hanging groove. Pull out left to a stance and belay on wires (on Delicatessen).
2) 5b, 23m. Another fine pitch. Follow the cracks above and continue through the crux of pitch 2 of Debauchery. Finish direct up a short groove.
FA. Steve Bancroft, Adey Hubbard 1975

USER COMMENTS

I think this is quite a serious route as well as being very pumpy
Ashley - 09/Feb/02

hmmm. that gear is really, really poor nowadays. don't climb it in mistake for darius. certainly hard for e3, but technically not too bad, just continuous. great climbing though.
nick verney - 20/May/02

Nick, that gear has been poor since about 1980. In fact it is quite likely that it was pretty dodgy in 1975.
Alan James - 20/May/02

Sorry, still E3 but a hard one admittedly.The sction around the poor bolt has a good Friend just below it,and good ones above at the base of the groove and isn't very hard anyway.
Jez Portman - 29/Jun/03

Didn't think it was hard for E3 gear seemed OK like Jez said use a friend. Loved this route despite the fact I was sandbagged into it - new to the crag got told it was original route - gulp
phatlad - 19/Jul/05

i thought the gear seemed pretty bomber, spaced entering the groove but good friends and the in situ tat to clip make it safe as houses.
robin richmond - 27/Jul/09

Good cam below the worthless bolt. Nice climbing however it felt like the hardest of the High Tor 3's.
Paul Bennett - 22/May/11

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  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 57
    hard E4 0 of 10
    E4 0 of 10
    easy E4 0 of 10
    hard E3 9 of 10
    E3 1 of 10
    easy E3 0 of 10
    hard E2 0 of 10
    E2 0 of 10
    easy E2 0 of 10
    hard 6a 0 of 26
    6a 0 of 26
    easy 6a 2 of 26
    hard 5c 10 of 26
    5c 14 of 26
    easy 5c 0 of 26
    hard 5b 0 of 26
    5b 0 of 26
    easy 5b 0 of 26
    3 Stars 20 of 21
    2 Stars 0 of 21
    1 Star 1 of 21
    0 Stars 0 of 21
    Bag of ..... 0 of 21

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