Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 56
An excellent, direct line up the cliff with just one difficult section on the first pitch. Start left of Darius, below a slightly less prominent groove.</br>1) 5c, 32m. Climb the groove to a ledge below the bulge (pegs, new and old - possibly loose). Step left then make a committing pull over the bulge, rightwards onto the face. It starts getting scary if you go up too far left here. Climb the crack above to arrive at the Debauchery stance.</br>2) 5b, 20m. Climb the crack at the left-hand end of the ledge leading to a peg at an overlap. Step right below the peg, pull past the overlap and climb a pocketed wall to the upper break. Move left and pull through the bulge on good holds to reach a tree.
Pokey E3, crackin fun though
Great fun, well worth doing, but! It isn't really E3, not if you stay on the right line. And you'd have to try hard to hurt yourself on it, even if you did make the mistake of forgetting to go right after pulling through the bulge.
A stainless steel peg has appeared backing up the old one prior to the crux section from the ledge.
The shield in which the new peg is embedded made alarming booming noises when I placed a wire only slightly higher. Take care.
The new peg is now loose. It came out easily by hand - I pushed it back in. Is this related to the booming noises of the rock noted in last comment. There are reasonable small wires higher up the crack but still in same piece of rock. This route will be lot more serious if you cant get reliable gear here.
Peg in P1 RB replaced, but the shield of rock it's in and which gives the last pro before the crux should be treated with much respect these days. Best climbed with your steady head on. There is a small wire placement on the wall well R of the peg at about the same level?
Did this first back in the early 80's and found the gear very low down and not inspiring for a tricky crux. Much the same now but better grade.Improbable moves after molunting the bulge.E3