Robert Brown

2 Stars
Fluttery
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Lyme Cryme < Brompton's Cocktail  |  Ariadne's Thread > Darius >>


An excellent, direct line up the cliff with just one difficult section on the first pitch. Start left of Darius, below a slightly less prominent groove.
1) 5c, 32m. Climb the groove to a ledge below the bulge (pegs, new and old - possibly loose). Step left then make a committing pull over the bulge, rightwards onto the face. It starts getting scary if you go up too far left here. Climb the crack above to arrive at the Debauchery stance.
2) 5b, 20m. Climb the crack at the left-hand end of the ledge leading to a peg at an overlap. Step right below the peg, pull past the overlap and climb a pocketed wall to the upper break. Move left and pull through the bulge on good holds to reach a tree.
FA. Arnis Strapcans, Jerry Frost 1974. Named in memory of a friend of the first ascensionists who died in a fall at Gogarth.

USER COMMENTS

Pokey E3, crackin fun though
phatlad - 19/Jul/05

Great fun, well worth doing, but! It isn't really E3, not if you stay on the right line. And you'd have to try hard to hurt yourself on it, even if you did make the mistake of forgetting to go right after pulling through the bulge.
David Jones - 20/Oct/05

A stainless steel peg has appeared backing up the old one prior to the crux section from the ledge.
Graham Hoey - 07/Oct/08

The shield in which the new peg is embedded made alarming booming noises when I placed a wire only slightly higher. Take care.
Paul Bennett - 22/May/11

The new peg is now loose. It came out easily by hand - I pushed it back in. Is this related to the booming noises of the rock noted in last comment. There are reasonable small wires higher up the crack but still in same piece of rock. This route will be lot more serious if you cant get reliable gear here.
Steve Burns - 20/Jun/11

Peg in P1 RB replaced, but the shield of rock it's in and which gives the last pro before the crux should be treated with much respect these days. Best climbed with your steady head on. There is a small wire placement on the wall well R of the peg at about the same level?
Ian Milward - 10/Jul/11

Did this first back in the early 80's and found the gear very low down and not inspiring for a tricky crux. Much the same now but better grade.Improbable moves after molunting the bulge.E3
Eagerandy - 15/Dec/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 56
    hard E4 0 of 19
    E4 0 of 19
    easy E4 0 of 19
    hard E3 0 of 19
    E3 16 of 19
    easy E3 3 of 19
    hard E2 0 of 19
    E2 0 of 19
    easy E2 0 of 19
    hard 6a 0 of 19
    6a 0 of 19
    easy 6a 0 of 19
    hard 5c 0 of 19
    5c 16 of 19
    easy 5c 2 of 19
    hard 5b 1 of 19
    5b 0 of 19
    easy 5b 0 of 19
    3 Stars 4 of 18
    2 Stars 14 of 18
    1 Star 0 of 18
    0 Stars 0 of 18
    Bag of ..... 0 of 18

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