Darius Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Robert Brown < Ariadne's Thread  |  Debauchery > Andromeda >>


A gem of a route, but like all gems rather polished - a sign of its allure as one of the best E2s in the country. The route is best done in one pitch, but can be split either at the large break at 20m or right of the flake almost in line with the Debauchery stance (in Perseus). Start below the prominent groove. Climb the groove to a ledge below the bulge (optional stance to reduce rope drag higher up). Pull through the bulge on the left and follow the crack above until a step right gains another crack. Continue past Debauchery into another groove on the left. Continue up the flake above to a position below the big old bolt. Pass this leftwards via a wonderful manoeuvre and finish up a steep groove to the top. Alternatively climb past the bolt at a polished E3 6a.
FFA. Pete Livesey in 1974. FAA. Oliver Woolcock, Clive Rowland, Paul Nunn 1963. The current bolt was placed by Chris Craggs, 25+ years ago.

USER COMMENTS

Like Pembroke: Take 2 More quikies than you think you'll need. And pitch 1 @ 4c? - Prehaps 4c* (* = probably is 4c, just awkward)
Chris - 08/Feb/02

The moves direct (actually v. slightly left of the bolt) are now very polished and hard for 6a.
Graham hoey - 28/Feb/02

High quality and tough. Despite some decent rests and good gear, the continual trickiness can be quite mentally draining. Long.
Fiend - 17/Sep/03

Has anyone tried this recently? There was a rockfall on it last summer, killing the belayer. Darius is on my hitlist, but I want to know if the rock is stable?
AndyN - 03/Jun/04

Followed it 4/5 weeks ago - a bit bold at the bulge at 35ft with runners in at a funny angle probably nudges what was a hard E2 to E3
Simon Lee - 04/Jun/04

Nah, E2 and great value for it. Loved this route as 1st E2 on lime 10 years ago, repeated many times since - still fabulous
phatlad - 19/Jul/05

Initial 4C section is surprisingly awkward on what is a pretty tough route overall. Take plenty of quickdraws!
C.E. Moreton - 13/Sep/06

a must do climb for everyone. v top end E2 but very long so runners must be regulated so they last all the way. feels great being out there on the lead for so long. didn't think the last mve past the bolt was any harder than other moves imo.
luke - 25/Apr/09

there's now some tat by the old bolt.

Whoever thinks this is polished should maybe venture to some of the other Peak Limestone venues and re-asses.
Paul Bennett - 26/Jul/10

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  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 129
    hard E3 0 of 47
    E3 0 of 47
    easy E3 10 of 47
    hard E2 29 of 47
    E2 6 of 47
    easy E2 2 of 47
    hard E1 0 of 47
    E1 0 of 47
    easy E1 0 of 47
    hard 6a 0 of 42
    6a 0 of 42
    easy 6a 1 of 42
    hard 5c 16 of 42
    5c 25 of 42
    easy 5c 0 of 42
    hard 5b 0 of 42
    5b 0 of 42
    easy 5b 0 of 42
    3 Stars 40 of 40
    2 Stars 0 of 40
    1 Star 0 of 40
    0 Stars 0 of 40
    Bag of ..... 0 of 40

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