Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 129
A gem of a route, but like all gems rather polished - a sign of its allure as one of the best E2s in the country. The route is best done in one pitch, but can be split either at the large break at 20m or right of the flake almost in line with the Debauchery stance (in Perseus). Start below the prominent groove. Climb the groove to a ledge below the bulge (optional stance to reduce rope drag higher up). Pull through the bulge on the left and follow the crack above until a step right gains another crack. Continue past Debauchery into another groove on the left. Continue up the flake above to a position below the big old bolt. Pass this leftwards via a wonderful manoeuvre and finish up a steep groove to the top. Alternatively climb past the bolt at a polished E3 6a.
Like Pembroke: Take 2 More quikies than you think you'll need. And pitch 1 @ 4c? - Prehaps 4c* (* = probably is 4c, just awkward)
The moves direct (actually v. slightly left of the bolt) are now very polished and hard for 6a.
High quality and tough. Despite some decent rests and good gear, the continual trickiness can be quite mentally draining. Long.
Has anyone tried this recently? There was a rockfall on it last summer, killing the belayer. Darius is on my hitlist, but I want to know if the rock is stable?
Followed it 4/5 weeks ago - a bit bold at the bulge at 35ft with runners in at a funny angle probably nudges what was a hard E2 to E3
Nah, E2 and great value for it. Loved this route as 1st E2 on lime 10 years ago, repeated many times since - still fabulous
Initial 4C section is surprisingly awkward on what is a pretty tough route overall. Take plenty of quickdraws!
a must do climb for everyone. v top end E2 but very long so runners must be regulated so they last all the way. feels great being out there on the lead for so long. didn't think the last mve past the bolt was any harder than other moves imo.
there's now some tat by the old bolt.