Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 131
One of top ten E1s in the country, it can be forgiven for the odd bit of polish here and there. The route crosses some remarkable ground with hidden jugs, ample protection and bags of exposure. Back up any old gear that you come across.</br></br>1) 5b, 21m. Traverse left from the base of Original Route, moving up to a peg. Keep going up left to 2 cracks (on Darius); this can be done high or low with no change in grade. Move left again below the bulge then pull over to the famous stance.</br>2) 5b, 24m. Leave the stance via the left-hand crack to a peg. Make an awkward rising traverse leftwards (pegs) to easier ground below the break. Keep traversing horizontally left (more pegs) until you can pull up to a tree.
Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.
Brilliant - bold first pitch, while the last pitch i virtually a clip up!!!
Excellent route. The high variation after the peg on the 1st pitch seems to be more common approach (based on chalk and polish). As good to lead as to second!
A brilliant route with a rather tricky top pitch - beware the rusty old pegs I'm not convinced that they would hold a fall!
an excellent route - not too scary with gear just when needed
re the rusty pegs. the 3rd peg on pitch 2 (the one after the one with the sling) came out as i was testing it cos it looked loose. i put it back which in retrspect probably wasnt the best course of action.
A superb route, the infrequent bits of polish do nothing to diminish it's quality. Bold 1st pitch contrasts a more sustained 2nd, but there are plenty of good rests. Most of the pegs are either bent or loose, but many can be backed up with decent wires.
The best E1 in the peak? The crux peg provides little encouragement for the hard step across, and the wires weren't as plentiful as I thought? If you have only led E1 on grit, you could be in for an education...
Wonderful. Small aliens are useful. I got 2 super placements above the peg on the first pitch.
Yeah i thought the top pitch crux was really scary pretty sure that the peg wouldnt hold it moves freely. great route though if you lead it try and get the top pitch much more fun!!
did this this summer and can only remember 2 pegs on the second pitch (one of which my second pulled out) so people beware - in no way is this a clip up, but there is plenty of gear when needed.
Awesome. Almost went wrong on the first pitch because the peg isn't visible from the tree stump, but a couple of others are. Also thought more like 5a (traversed high - low option looked much harder).
I went into this totally unprepared, not having used trad gear for a while and not having properly checked where the route went. I assumed a three star route's line would be obvious and that gear would be good. I found the line very uncertain, sometimes even going downhill. Onthe first pitch I only found one decent placement in the first 50 feet,just after the start. The only thing that saved my life was that the climbing was fairly easy. It confirmed my suspicions that: limestone may not take good wires and that once the original pro has rusted away after 50 years the routes become unjustifiable. When will people realise that climbing is about enjoyment of quick movement, not hours spent fiddling with metal toys? With 5 parabolts the route might regain its 3 star status. If properly placed they would also show where the hell the route should go. Having studied various old guides, I see that confusion has always reigned. Honesty rather than euphoria might encourage more realistic comments. I note that several bits of useless rust have been removed in the last few years. 'bout time to replace? Oliver
Re. above: Oh come on, you obviously don't like trad, but you are actually joking, yes? I'm all for getting rid of useless rotten rubbish, but the ethic is as it is in the place that it is, and unless you put the route up or have some other claim to it and the surrounding rock, you live with it. Round here, I gather, you leave old rusty rubbish on the routes, clip them if you wish and if you have a brain, you back'em up. Can't remember if there's any crucial pegs, if there is and their rotting has changed the grade, I think there could be some justification in replacing them, but I'd probably rather have the grade changed and have to get a bit better to climb it in its more natural state. This being a clip-up (sort of) for the second pitch detracts a little for me (but it is the character of the thing).
the best climb in the peak (probably), didn't seem to bad for E1 as me and my uncle did it in les than an hour, appart from route finding it was a bit of a walk up. I think we should get rid of the pegs and make it a true E1.
The large flake at the end of the first traverse section is considerably looser than last year and the whole crag has seemingly suffered from strong freeze/thaw this winter.