Central Sadness

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
 E5 6a

Adjacent Routes
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Possibly the best route of its grade in the quarries. Start below a thin crack to the right of a tapering groove.
1) 6a, 25m. The bold first pitch starts with a tricky move to gain the crack, follow it more easily to a ledge below a recess. Move up on slopers to a spike (sling), and then commit to gaining the wall above. Head up this, moving right near the top, to a two-bolt belay.
2) 6a, 32m. The better protected second pitch moves up and right from the belay towards a crack. Once gained, follow it (very small cams are helpful) in an amazing position, until you make a difficult move to gain a larger crack that leads up and right towards the top of the crag.
FA. J.Silvester, C.Dale 5.5.1986

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