The Unoriginal Route
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36m. A poor, chipped eliminate left of Original Route which has had its (crucial) fixed gear removed. Follow Original route on its start detour to the left but continue climbing direct up a crack. Step right then up before moves leftwards lead to easier ground. Climb direct, keeping off adjacent routes, over a bulge and up a scoop to the break. Continue to the top. Not in current guidebook.
FA. John Codling, Jim Lockett 1985