Tales of Yankee Power

3 Stars
Fluttery
 E5 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Perseus < Original Route  |  Flaky Wall > Reproduction >>


The perfect introduction to the E5 grade and on the perfect cliff. Spicy, but safe with a bit of Buoux thrown in. Climb direct from the Original Route start to rejoin the route in its main groove. Climb up and place some wires then follow the thin crack in the arete until it runs out. Climb coolly to the jug (or thread hold?) and regain your composure. Move up the thin wall above (hidden peg on the left) with one final hard move to pass the break and gain the belay on Original Route.
FA. Phil Burke, Nadim Siddiqui, Al Evans 1979

USER COMMENTS

is there a new bolt high on this route?
question - 19/Jul/04

Wandering, escapable, overgraded and overrated! OK, that may be a bit unfair, but it really is like a F6b+ at an average crag in France.
Tom B - 31/May/05

Wonderful, "deliciously run out", technical and genuinely good fun. On a beautiful summer's days you'd think you were in Buoux. One of the best routes bar none.
phatlad - 19/Jul/05

Tat replaced as of today.
Adam Lincoln - 08/Jul/06

I think Tom's comments are fairly accurate on this one!

Thread runner still fine as of this week.
Paul Bennett - 03/Jun/11

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  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 29
    hard E6 0 of 10
    E6 0 of 10
    easy E6 0 of 10
    hard E5 1 of 10
    E5 6 of 10
    easy E5 2 of 10
    hard E4 1 of 10
    E4 0 of 10
    easy E4 0 of 10
    hard 6b 0 of 10
    6b 0 of 10
    easy 6b 1 of 10
    hard 6a 2 of 10
    6a 6 of 10
    easy 6a 1 of 10
    hard 5c 0 of 10
    5c 0 of 10
    easy 5c 0 of 10
    3 Stars 6 of 9
    2 Stars 3 of 9
    1 Star 0 of 9
    0 Stars 0 of 9
    Bag of ..... 0 of 9

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