Reproduction

3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
 E6 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Tales of Yankee Power < Flaky Wall  |  Supersonic > My New Hat >>


High quality climbing up a tenuous line on the blank wall left of Flaky Wall, with spaced protection and a lonely feel. Move cunningly rightwards from the old tree (peg) to join the overlap of Flaky Wall. Cross this to the rest then climb boldly up discontinuous flakes, bearing left to the thread on Yankee Power. Keep going up pockets keeping just left of Supersonic.
FA. Simon Nadin, Richard Davies 1985. Straightened out a route called Musical Women which was a hybrid on Decadence.

USER COMMENTS

Cleaned the nut placements out on this (July 2003). Good gear if you have the tenacity to hang on, find it, place it and then keep going. That said there are two hands-off rests, one on Flaky and one on the ramp of Decadence. Superb climbing, the best route on the shield.
Graham Hoey - 10/Jul/03

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