Poetry Pink

3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
 E5 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Pull My Daisy < Rainbow of Recalcitrance  |  Cystitis By Proxy > Splitstream >>


A stunning route that is the entry-level qualification for the big E5s on this slab. Start below the tower and make a rising traverse to reach good holds below the break. Place some gear and make a delicate mantel up to the bolt. A hard sequence of moves above this eventually leads to a decent three-finger edge. Beyond this each move is easier as you run it out to where a mantelshelf to reach the second bolt brings massive mental relief. Move up and left onto the Rainbow, then teeter right to jugs. Ascend to the groove past micro-wires and micro-cams. Head up the groove to the top or, if you want to extend the experience...
2) Released from Treatment 6a, 25m. Belay on the left at the base of the groove. Step back down into the groove, and traverse out to a bolt level with the belay. Carry on traversing until below a second bolt, move up to this, and then step right above the crux of Cystitis By Proxy and finish up the good holds to the bolt belay.
FA. (Poetry Pink) J.Redhead, D.Towse 7.1984
FA. (Released From Treatment) D.Towse, J.Redhead, A.Newton 26.4.1986

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