Never Never Land

3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
 E5 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< 362 < Scheherezade  |  Khubla Khan > Short Stories >>


A great route, and one of the better E5s in the quarries, although still a serious one. Start below the stepped roofs and ascend the groove past them until you can make a move left to go up to an iron spike. Follow the sustained flake up until bolts can be seen above and right on Igam Ogam (not described). Either move up to these and climb to the top (safer) or move up to a rest and gear. Then trend up and left to a sloping ledge on the edge of the buttress and make your way very boldly to the top.
FA. M.Crook, N.Walton, A.Newton 2.1984

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