Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 17
One of the best hard routes in the country with a technical crux, a bold groove and a sting in the tail. Although the crux is well protected, there is a big run-out on only marginally easier territory with ground-fall potential. Scramble up easy rock to a belay under the groove. Climb the wall past two bolts into the capped groove. Climb the groove (heart in mouth, runners in mind) to small wire placements on the right and a peg. Move left with hands above the overhang to a rest on the Decadence belay. Make more great moves up the pocketed wall above past bolts until a final swing leftwards gains Flaky Wall. Finish as for this.
As good as it gets! Should be on everyones list of trad routes to do
excellent, one of the best routes of its type in the country what a pity i failed first time around
Old 8mm self-drill bolts now replaced.
Do I assume that these are the bolt(s) above the Decadence belay ledge? Last time I was on this the bolt at the start was new.