Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 12
Well-named, the line encompasses some of the best moves and rock on the Tor. While pitch 1 has a sense of urgency about it, pitch 2 probably has the hardest move.</br>1) 6a, 24m. From the left-hand side of The Pillar (page 356 ) move up (peg and bolt above) and traverse left to a semi-rest below flakes. A confident approach will see you up these and onward to a flake. Move across left to the Bastille stance.</br>2) 6a, 18m. Step down and left to join the slippy crux of Flaky Wall. Continue up the cracks of Supersonic then move left, past a rest, up a ramp to the arete (hidden peg). A hard move gains Original Route. Climb up this to the belay. Abseil or...</br>3) 5c, 30m. Traverse the upper break leftwards across Darius to join Robert Brown to finish.
The starting moves are slightly exciting, a taste of things to come. The abseil chains from the Original Route ledge are removed from time to time!
Eh? Since when has this been E5? Fab route though - & the "runout" on the 1st pitch isn't nearly as far as is made out.
must confess i do not recall the first pitch being especially run out...
Would rather lead Pitch one than follow the traverse.
E4, value for it like. But still E4 - definitely the best of the traverse lines (well I haven't done the girdle yet)