<< Delicatessen < Debauchery | The Grapevine > Lyme Cryme >>
Well-named, the line encompasses some of the best moves and rock on the Tor. While pitch 1 has a sense of urgency about it, pitch 2 probably has the hardest move.
1) 6a, 24m. From the left-hand side of The Pillar (page 356 ) move up (peg and bolt above) and traverse left to a semi-rest below flakes. A confident approach will see you up these and onward to a flake. Move across left to the Bastille stance.
2) 6a, 18m. Step down and left to join the slippy crux of Flaky Wall. Continue up the cracks of Supersonic then move left, past a rest, up a ramp to the arete (hidden peg). A hard move gains Original Route. Climb up this to the belay. Abseil or...
3) 5c, 30m. Traverse the upper break leftwards across Darius to join Robert Brown to finish.
FA. Arnis Strapcans, Gorden Jenkin 1980
The starting moves are slightly exciting, a taste of things to come. The abseil chains from the Original Route ledge are removed from time to time!
Graham Hoey - 28/Feb/02
Eh? Since when has this been E5? Fab route though - & the "runout" on the 1st pitch isn't nearly as far as is made out.
Lucy E - 16/Mar/02
must confess i do not recall the first pitch being especially run out...
spragged - 19/Mar/02
Would rather lead Pitch one than follow the traverse.
Philip Smith - 24/Feb/04
E4, value for it like. But still E4 - definitely the best of the traverse lines (well I haven't done the girdle yet)
phatlad - 19/Jul/05
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