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A burly route that requires a determined approach. Start 6m to the left of Unicorn.</br>1) 5b, 12m. Boldly climb the groove and make a delicate traverse right at the top to the Unicorn belay.</br>2) 6a, 8m. Attack the painfully-obvious roof-crack, then belay above the gorse.</br>3) 4c, 35m. Move up and left to a big spike on the rib. Continue up the rib, moving left and right to avoid any real difficulties.
FA. D.Roberts, P.Williams 12.5.1979