Fallen Block Crack/Black Gates

2 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< The Gambit Climb < The Ring  |  Rectory Chimneys > None >>


A good, wide, traditional crack, for good, wide, traditional climbers! Start at the fallen block.
1) 4a, 10m. Follow the short crack to belay at a chockstone.
2) 4c, 25m. Follow the steep crack above to gain a rest at 10m. Continue straight up the slightly relenting fissure to reach The Black Gates.
3) 10m. Move to the left edge of the ledge and climb the chimney for 6m. Head right and up for 10m over easy ground to reach another chimney.
4) 20m. Climb the traditional chimney, complete with chockstone, to gain a ledge on the right. Finish up the slab via the corner-crack at the left end.
FA. (Fallen Block Crack) I.Waller 1908. FA. (Black Gates) G.Mallory 1915

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