| E4 6b|
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A good route with a difficult to protect lower section that feels hard for E4. Start just left of Slape Direct and pull left onto a crozzly ledge and a poor tiny cam in an overlap. Step left to the arete and make a desperate pull to reach the undercut flake. This move is extremely hard for the short. If you gain the flake, layback furiously up and left on good holds. At the top of the flake, move right and easier climbing soon arrives. Continue to the turret belay.
FA. R.Fawcett, C.Gibb 5.6.1978