The Pillar

1 Stars
 E5 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Tumbril < The Passion Wagon  |  Pillar Direct > Cathy Come Home >>

A good introduction to the grade, lacking the big feel of the classic routes of the Main Face, but requiring a deal of care over the placing of protection and handling of the rock, especially towards the finish. Follow the wall past old (and very short) pegs to the roof. Move left then pull over to a good, booming flake. Climb up until you can traverse right to a peg then move up to a bulge (peg). Take a breather then make a hard move right and back left to reach a ledge. Move left into the gully. Tree belay.
FFA. Jim Moran, Al Evans 1977. FA. Brian Moore, Bruce Andrew 1970.


Unless the pegs have been replaced take care, I placed them for Jim and what looks like solid angles in up to the hilt are actually sawn off to 1 inch long so they did not bottom. As Jim led one just fell out after he had moved past it and rattled down the rope. O expect friends would be better fitted inti the pockets these days.
Al Evans - 15/Sep/06

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