<< Subsidiary Grooves < Lubyanka | The Grooves > Overhanging Arete >>
Simply amazing. It has three pitches that are hard, the final of which is stunning.</br>1) and 2) As for Subsidiary Grooves.</br>3) 5c, 18m. From the belay, move right past the groove of Lubyanka and climb the next groove - all very technical and sustained - then traverse left to the triangular ledge belay on Lubyanka or combine with the next pitch for cleaner ropework.</br>4) 6a, 17m. From the right-hand end of the ledge make a mind-bending move to gain the hanging groove in the arete. Follow this with difficulty to a good ledge and another shared belay over on the left on a good spike.</br>5) 5c, 40m. The big one. Move up the slab above heading right below the big overhang/diagonal groove. Move right along here, stepping down slightly near the arete where the groove becomes more vertical. Regain the now-overhanging groove and bridge up in the most spectacular of positions until it eases into a slab. Continue on to a good belay above.
FA. M.Boysen, A.Williams, J.Jordan 1.5.1966,FFA. R.Evans, H.Pasquill 1974