Lord of the Flies

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
 E6 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Resurrection < Cenotaph Corner  |  Right Wall > Cemetery Gates >>


A stunning pitch for the rock athlete. Its first ascent was immortalised in an early climbing film with Ron Fawcett's, "Come on arms, do your stuff!" Take plenty of short thin slings and sky hooks to add to the limited protection. Start 3m right of Cenotaph Corner and climb the thin vertical cracks. Where they run out, continue direct to a series of thin ledges. Traverse right along these (here, a skilful climber can lasso a spike with their foot!) to dangerous moves up to a pocket. From the pocket, head up more easily for a short while until a go-ey few moves lead to another pocket with a runner and a nut out to the right. Move up and right to gain better holds that bring you to the Girdle Ledge. Thin moves up from here lead to a finger ledge that leads up to a faint groove. Follow this past a good wire, moving left to finish.
FA. Ron Fawcett 26.6.1979

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