Stairway to Heaven

2 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Diagonal < Zeta  |  West Rib > Western Slabs >>


A good route with a fierce pull on pitch two, and a tricky groove on the last. Start below and just left of the large scoop with a corner-crack at its back.
1) 4c, 20m. From a weakness in the initial roof, climb directly up to a block belay, below the left wall of the scoop/corner.
2) 5c, 16m. Ascend into the scoop for 3m and arrange some gear. Traverse out left to below a blunt arete. Thin and very bold moves up this soon lead to easier climbing and a traverse left along the break of Diagonal to its belay in a small crack.
3) 5b, 16m. Move back right along the traverse and climb the first thin crack, trending right at the top to a belay ledge.
4) 5c, 18m. The middle of three grooves provides a problematic finale to this route.
FA. S.Cathcart, T.Curtis 9.1978

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