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Steep and uncompromising with an incredibly intimidating second pitch. Start left of the oak tree below some grooves.
1) 5a, 20m. Climb the right-hand groove to join the Hyll Drem Girdle and follow this to the stance on the rib.
2) 5c, 24m. Move up the groove to get to a traverse line that leads right to an à cheval position on a spike, ride it cowboy! From the saddle, a tricky move right round a nose leads to a hand-crack in space with a jug at its top. Reach down and right to an undercut and pull right into the adjacent groove. Follow this on improving holds to eventually escape left to the belay on Hardd.
3) 4a, 12m. Much easier broken terrain leads to the top.
FA. B.Wyvill, D.Mossman 25.4.1971