A Midsummer' Night's Dream

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
 E6 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Great Wall < Womb Bits  |  Indian Face > November >>


A long and challenging route with three big pitches up the Great Wall. Like Right Wall and Lord, the route is considered easier when someone has done the hard work and chalked it up for you. Start on a small grassy ledge halfway between Great Wall and November.
1) 6a, 26m. Trend up and left making your way towards ledges and a peg. Move up and slightly right to a wire looped over an old bolt. Move up and slightly left to a peg hidden in a flake/groove on the left (easy to miss). A hard laybacking type move and reach lead over a bulge to where a line of holds lead leftwards to just above the belay of Great Wall, step down and belay.
2) 6a, 23m. Follow Great Wall up the groove for about 10m, to a move left onto a tiny ledge on the wall. A thin and technical wall above leads to holds that track left to the belay on Daurigol.
3) 6a, 28m. Easy climbing leads up and left towards Chimney Route - stop just before this. Head up to the steep arete - a side-runner to the right protects the initial steep section. A powerful series of moves up this leads to an easing in both angle and difficulty. Collapse onto the ledge above knowing you have just completed one of the best E6s in the country.
FA. E.Drummond (5pts) 1973. FFA. P.Whillance, D.Armstrong 28.7.1977 and 28.5.1978 - pitches climbed in separate years.

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