The Troach

3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Vember < Curving Crack  |  Pedestal Crack > Scorpio >>


A magnificent bold wall-climb giving open and exposed climbing on good holds with spaced protection.
1) 4c, 10m. Climb the large flake onto the pedestal and belay, as for Curving Crack.
2) 5b, 45m. Move out right passing a narrow corner, then head up via a hard move to a small quartz ledge. Move up and left gaining a small groove and follow it for 13m past an old peg. Move right and head up with difficult to an overlap and more ageing ironmongery. Go right to gain better holds and a short groove leading to a large flake. Traditionally the belay is here, but continuing up left onto the arete makes for a better pitch and a more comfortable belay.
3) 5a, 12m. Finish easily up the arete as for Curving Crack.
FA. H.Banner, R.Wilson (some aid) 4.10.1959. FFA. R.Evans 1967

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