Great Slab

3 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< White Slab < Great-Bow Combination  |  Bloody Slab > Slab Climb Right-hand >>


Another of the great Cloggy mountaineering routes, with only one technically demanding section up an often-damp corner. Other than that most of the climbing is straightforward. Start as for Great-Bow Combination.
1) 4c, 45m. As for Great-Bow Combination.
2) 4a, 12m. Follow Great-Bow Combination for 12m metres to the first easing on the rib with a prominent diagonal break just above. Step right onto the slab, passing a flake/spike. Carry on traversing right to the corner and climb the grassy gully to a belay below a groove.
3) 4c, 45m. Climb the groove past an often-wet section, crux, and continue up to gain the corner/groove on the left. Follow this to the first grassy moustache and then take a diagonal line leftwards across slabby rock to a belay in the middle of the Great Slab.
4) 4c, 45m. Carry on in the same vein, moving diagonally left to hit the arete and savour the exposure. There are several possible belays here, the best one is higher up.
5) 15m. Climb the easy but sensational arete to the top and scramble out.
FA. C.Kirkus, G.Macphee 15.6.1930

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