| E4 6a|
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Another superb steep route that gains the undercut upper wall from a groove on the right. Start below the groove on the right-hand side of the buttress.
1) 5c, 18m. Climb the groove then move left below the upper groove (Astoroth). Traverse left to the arete and a hanging belay. You can also split the pitch using the belay of Clonus but this usually gives a lot of rope drag.
2) 6a, 22m. Pull steeply up a groove then exit right onto the headwall below the crack. Climb this to the top.
FA. P.Boardman, M.Wragg (1pt) 24.6.1970
FFA. P.Livesey, P.Gomersall 10.6.1978