| E7 6b|
<< Slab Route < Direct Route | Lot's Wife/Left-hand Crack > Lot's Groove/Right-hand Crack >>
A wild route in an impressive position taking the huge arete. For those climbing at this level, the steep crack just round to the left is the equally amazing Glyder Crack, which goes at E6 6b. The route has some pegs but reaching the first is really committing. Start from the belay on top of P1 of Direct Route, left of the arete. Climb up and rightwards passing a rather disappointing micro-wire placement. Make a desperate reach for the first peg. Climb the arete with a detour onto the right-hand face at the first overlap. Move up to a break and follow it rightwards before heading back left to another gripper-clipper for a peg. Technical climbing leads to a flake up and left. The arete and wall are followed to the top where you can collapse onto the spacious ledge - the Veranda.
FA. N.Craine 1988. FA (Direct Finish) J.Dawes 1988