The Great Arete

3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
 E5 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< The Great Corner < The Groove  |  None > None >>


A stunning and totally mind-blowing line taking the groove in the steep arete. Start as for The Groove.
1) and 2) As for The Groove.
3) 6a, 40m. Move left and go up to a peg. Go up again and slightly left to a hole. Some scary bridging up the groove leads to the first overhang. Move right around this into a crack, peg. Carry on up the still-sustained groove on the right past another roof and go up to a peg. Climb the tapering groove to where you can move right to good holds where the angle relents. Head up for a few more metres to a sorry collection of pegs and traverse right to a better belay.
4) 4c, 22m. Move back left to the arete and follow it in a splendid position to the belay below the crevasse on The Groove.
5) 4a, 40m. As for The Groove.
FA. B.Campbell-Kelly, E.Drummond (4pts) 1.6.1969
FFA. P.Livesey, S.Foster 6.1975

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