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A great route with a burly and traditional first pitch. Start beneath the wide crack just left of the arete.
1) 5a, 20m. Climb the crack, which is strenuous but requires very little in the way of jamming, to a move right onto a ledge.
2) 5b, 25m. Head right and into the steep groove. Climb this until you can move left and onto the arete. Finish up this to an easing just before the top.
FA. J.Brown, P.Crew 30.4.1967