Heroin

2 Stars
Graunchy
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Dinosaur < Mestizo  |  Nightride > Positron >>


A tough route, and one that is steeped in traditional climbing. Start below the horrific-looking overhanging chimney groove.
1) 5b, 30m. Move up into the chimney until you are forced to back-and-foot and continue to where the chimney closes. Escape into a crack on the right wall, and follow this up to a groove. When you are level with the top of the chimney/crack, make a wild move down and left to a hidden jug. Step across onto the steep slab on the left, and pull into the groove that is the continuation of the chimney. Move up this for a few metres and then traverse across the slab to below a smaller groove and ascend this to a small stance. A long pitch that eats as much gear as you can throw at it.
2) 4c, 15m. Follow the easier groove to the grassy ledge.
3) 20m. Traverse right across the ledge as for The Hustler P3.
4) 35m. As for Nightride P4.
FA. P.Crew, J.Baldcock 19.3.1966

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