<< The Rat Race < Scavenger | Resolution Direct > Cordon Bleau >>
Features some great open face climbing on P2. Start 3m right of Scavenger at the foot of the left-hand of three cracks.
1) 5c, 30m. Steeply climb the flared crack then head off rightwards, avoiding the big crack. Climb the steep wall to its right to gain a small sloping ledge with a couple of rotting pegs.
2) 5c, 40m. Climb the wall left of the belay and move up and left through a steep section (peg) then move right to big foot-holds. Head back left to the base of the wall with a thin crack (spikes). The wall is steep, but small sharp holds allow progress to a point where a span out left gains the sloping left arete. Climbing direct up the wall is much harder (6a ), especially for those of normal stature and below. A sloping ledge is reached and the cracks above lead directly to two large spikes below the final crack of P3.
3) 5a, 40m. Race up the fine left-hand crack to the top.
FA. J.Moran, G.Milburn, A.Evans 11.6.1978