<< Mammoth < The Hustler | Heroin > Alien/Positron >>
A great route that can be climbed in one long and sustained pitch. The route is reached via the first pitch of The Hustler.
1) 5a, 20m. As for The Hustler.
2) 5a, 23m. From the belay, move back right above your previous line to reach a small right-facing flake. Climb this more or less direct to a ledge and belay.
3) 5b, 20m. Move up into the left-hand crack, and when this gets hard, span out to the right crack, and start using a combination of both to gain the steeper section where the cracks join. Hurry up this, fighting the growing pump to reach the top of the wall and belay back on spikes. It is possible to link pitches 2 and 3 into one mega-sustained pitch.
4) 30m. Traverse right across the ledge as for The Hustler P3.
5) 35m. As for Nightride P4.
FA. T.Taylor, P.Jones 7.9.1970