<< Zeus < A Dream of White Horses | The Big Groove > Phagocyte >>
A great route, that is one of the easier lines on Main Cliff, however the approach and climbing, make it a very committing route that shouldn't be underestimated. Start as for the Big Groove below the vague line of flakes running to the corner.
1) 5b, 35m. Climb up to the flakes and follow them rightwards across to a ledge below a short corner. Climb this for few metres and then move left into another left-facing corner which leads to a belay ledge on the right. This is also Big Groove P1.
2) 4b, 15m. Descend slightly and step left into a wide crack, follow this until you reach a line of flakes that lead easily up leftwards to a belay below a long groove about 10m higher than your previous belay.
3) 5b, 25m. Head up the groove on the left, tackling the awkward bulge, before you gain a large stance on the left.
4) 4b, 21m. Continue up via easier climbing behind the belay to the top.
FA. P.Crew, B.Ingle 24.4.1964