Citadel

3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
 E5 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Sebastopol < Big Gut  |  The Hustler > Mammoth >>


A superb and sustained line with a tricky first pitch and a great crack on the second. Start 10m left of the chimney of Mammoth.
1) 6b, 32m. Climb up and leftwards across the lower wall to gain undercut flakes. Traverse right to the corner and small roof (good gear - put it in!) and make a couple of desperate moves up and left to gain the sloping ledge. Good belay up and right.
2) 6a, 30m. Move up right to gain the crack and climb it with sustained interest to where the angle and rock colour change. Continue more easily to a small stance.
3) 4c, 35m. Climb the groove above to join the traverse line of Cordon Bleau (next page). Finish up this or make your way more directly over easy but loose ground to the top.
FA. J.Street, G.Hibberd (some aid) 19.11.1968. FFA. R.Fawcett 1977

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