The Big Groove

3 Stars
Technical
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Pentathol < Supercrack  |  Sebastopol > Big Gut >>


A great route, with some exciting climbing up the big groove bounding the left side of the steeper section of the Main Cliff. Start 8m right of a prominent square block on the sea-level traverse, and underneath a vague line of flakes trending rightwards.
1) 5b, 42m. Climb up to the flakes and follow them rightwards across to a ledge below a short corner. Climb this for few metres and then move left into another left-facing corner which leads to a ledge on the right (the Pentathol belay). A short corner above leads to the end of a huge sloping ledge with a belay over on its right-hand end.
2) 5c, 20m. Move over to the left-hand end of the ledge and climb over the bulge into a corner. Head up and right to a sloping ledge at the bottom of the main groove. Head up and right with difficulty to gain and follow the steep groove and continuation crack formed by a large flake on the right wall. From the top of the flake, make a desperate pull onto a sloping ledge and belay. 3) 5a, 34m. Move left into yet another corner, which is sustained. A tricky exit at the top of the groove leads to a good stance around the arete on the left.
4) 15m. Easy climbing/scrambling leads up behind the stance to the top.
FA. P.Crew, D.Alcock (1pt) 18.6.1966

USER COMMENTS

No comments on this route. Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    hard E4 0 of 0
    E4 0 of 0
    easy E4 0 of 0
    hard E3 0 of 0
    E3 0 of 0
    easy E3 0 of 0
    hard E2 0 of 0
    E2 0 of 0
    easy E2 0 of 0
    hard 6a 0 of 0
    6a 0 of 0
    easy 6a 0 of 0
    hard 5c 0 of 0
    5c 0 of 0
    easy 5c 0 of 0
    hard 5b 0 of 0
    5b 0 of 0
    easy 5b 0 of 0
    3 Stars 0 of 0
    2 Stars 0 of 0
    1 Star 0 of 0
    0 Stars 0 of 0
    Bag of ..... 0 of 0

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.