The Big Groove
<< Hombre < Pentathol | Sebastopol > Citadel >>
A great route, with some exciting climbing up the big groove bounding the left side of the steeper section of the Main Cliff. Start 8m right of a prominent square block on the sea-level traverse, and underneath a vague line of flakes trending rightwards.
1) 5b, 42m. Climb up to the flakes and follow them rightwards across to a ledge below a short corner. Climb this for few metres and then move left into another left-facing corner which leads to a ledge on the right (the Pentathol belay). A short corner above leads to the end of a huge sloping ledge with a belay over on its right-hand end.
2) 5c, 20m. Move over to the left-hand end of the ledge and climb over the bulge into a corner. Head up and right to a sloping ledge at the bottom of the main groove. Head up and right with difficulty to gain and follow the steep groove and continuation crack formed by a large flake on the right wall. From the top of the flake, make a desperate pull onto a sloping ledge and belay. 3) 5a, 34m. Move left into yet another corner, which is sustained. A tricky exit at the top of the groove leads to a good stance around the arete on the left.
4) 15m. Easy climbing/scrambling leads up behind the stance to the top.
FA. P.Crew, D.Alcock (1pt) 18.6.1966