<< Run Fast, Run Free < Bloody Chimney | Barbarossa > The Eternal Optimist >>
A good route that takes the curving groove-line where two buttresses meet. Start below the corner.
1) 4b, 15m. Move up to the top of a small pinnacle on the left, and follow the right-trending crack. Move left and go up to a small ledge at the base of the main groove.
2) 5a, 20m. Head up the groove, passing a bulge, and carry on in the same vein until you can move right to another ledge.
3) 5a, 10m. Tackle the leaning crack directly above the stance. This is steep and sustained, and requires a battle to reach the alcove at half-height. Easier climbing up the still-steep crack leads to the top. It is advisable to keep the ropes on for the scrambling to get to the walk off.
FA. B.Ingle, P.Crew 25.4.1964